Museu de Lleida

This brand new museum (opened in November 2007) is an exercise in contrasts: the exterior is stunningly modern, in a severe and largely windowless minimalist style, executed in bright white stone tiles. On the inside, the exhibition spaces are largely decorated with black marble with subdued lighting, giving pride of place to the exhibits (although this does make some of the walkways rather dark, so watch your step).


The museum covers the history of the city and its region from prehistoric times to the 18th century baroque. A recurring theme is invasion, colonisation and conquest: the area was variously under the control of the Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and Moors before finally becoming part of Christian Spain in the 12th century, after which it follows the more familiar pattern of Spanish history.


The exhibits begin with the origins of humans, although the first real relics are from early prehistoric settlements, and include bones and primitive stone tools. There are rather more remains mostly pottery - from the bronze age and early iron ages, when the area had begun to develop small defended settlements under local tribal leaders. There are some impressive remains from the Roman, Visigothic and Islamic periods, by which time Lleida had become a sizeable settlement.


The more extensive (and noteworthy) part of the collection belongs to the mediaeval Christian period, comprising an impressive range of religious art and artefacts from churches in the region. This includes an important collection of items saved from the old Cathedral, and the partial recreation of a chapel from the 17th century, reflecting the emerging baroque style of the Counter-Reformation.


The museum offers step-free access throughout, although the dark interior (especially some of the staircases) may not be great if you are partially sighted. There's a small shop selling mostly books and postcards, and lockers in which to leave your bags (EUR1 refundable deposit). Allow a good two hours to do the museum justice.


Although all the descriptions are in Catalan only, an English written translation is available (to borrow) for free.